Thursday, November 17, 2011

And life goes on in Soissons

So, the last two weeks have been pretty typical.  I've been mostly in Soissons but I've been doing a lot of interesting things that you probably want to hear about.  So I'm going to throw them at you in a completely disorganized fashion and hope you enjoy.

First of all, the teaching.  Maybe some people want to know about that.  It's going really, really well!  I like working with the kids, and most of them are pretty well-behaved most of the time.  There are exceptions, but I haven't had any major discipline problems.  I'm a teaching assistant, not a full teacher, so I don't see the students every day.  Most classes meet with me once a week, a few every other week, so I go through quite a few students in every cycle.  I feel justified for not knowing all their names, although by now I'm getting a lot more faces.  My usual class consists of taking a part of the class to do some kind of conversation practice, or alternatively teaching to the whole class while the teacher is in the room.  I speak mostly in English, although for some things I have to switch to French.  The kids love me, too.  It's quite encouraging to hear the whole class get excited when I walk in!

What else has been going on in my life?  La foire!  There's currently a fair in Soissons, and we went.  It's pretty much like an American fair, except there a lot more casino-ish games and raffles and not quite as many rides, although there are still plenty of things to upset your stomach after you've eaten your fill of gauffres (waffles) and barbes à Papa (cotton candy, literally "Daddy's beard").  Sadly there are no funnel cakes.  I didn't do many of the rides yet, but there's time; it goes on until December 4th!

I realized the other day that I had exercised one time since I'd come to France.  I haven't been able to find a sporting event that interests me, since most sporting clubs here are geared towards children (although there are rumors of adult pickup basketball!  Keep your fingers crossed!), so I decided if I wanted to stay healthy, it was time to suck it up and run.  You should know this about me: I hate running.  I love playing sports--I will play almost any team sport imaginable, with varying degrees of success--but I hate running for its own sake.  I do, however, prefer exercising to not exercising, so I got my booty off the couch and took to the streets of Soissons.  My route took me to the north part of town, never knowing exactly where I was but always keeping the cardinal directions in mind (and if I do get lost, I can just wander around until I see the Cathedral towering over the skyline.  Convenient landmark).  I ran, and ran, and ran.  I was surprised at how well I was doing.  By the time I got back I'd been running for at least 30 minutes and had looped around the north part of town all the way to the river.  So I got back, tired but satisfied.  Until the next day.  My legs have never been so sore in my life.  For the first time, having a bedroom on the 3rd story really bothered me.  I stretched and stretched, but nothing helped.  The next day, I was still sore, but I'd recovered enough to run again (although only about half as far).  I hope to make a habit of it.

I also had one of the more amusing experiences of my life last weekend.  Orso was playing drums for a community musical, so we made a day of it.  Some friends and family came over for lunch (and I tasted the best champagne I've ever had...Ruinart, made by the oldest champagne house in the world), and I met a former professor of oenology.  It was very intimidating comparing wine notes with him.  Anyway, when we finally got to the musical, I was bowled over by the quality of the production.  All but two of the actors were in their 60-70's, and none of them could really sing.  It was so bad it was good.  Camille and I almost died when a 70 year old lady strutted on stage in a bathing suit.

Today was a big day for me.  My final immigration appointment.  The final test to see whether the country of France wants me.  Of course we had to go to Laon (about a 20 minute train ride away), it'd be too easy otherwise.  I frantically got all my documents in order and made it to our appointment without a problem, flew through the appointment with flying colors, and can finally say I'm a long-term legal resident of France!  After our appointment we went to lunch with some of the other assistants who were in the neighborhood--all seven Soissonais were there (5 English, 2 Spanish), as well as several from other cities, so we had quite a time.  We didn't do anything too exciting, just ate a nice crêpe lunch and had drinks, but it was a really nice day.  Laon was much more enjoyable when I didn't have to hike up the mountain (Fortunately, we found the tram.  Which is, incidentally, the only fully-automated tram system in the world.  It looks like a small, very slow, very low-key roller coaster).  Hopefully we're going to meet up with the other assistants some other time.  Several of them might be coming to Soissons for a historical conference in a couple of weeks.  Clovis, the first king of France, was baptized here, so to celebrate the anniversary of his death the city is sponsoring a free public historical conference.  I thought no one would want to go with me, so I threw away the flyer, but it turns out Blanca (who is the Spanish assistant at my high school, and a very nice person) is going and Hector wants to, too, so I'm signing up ASAP.  Can't miss the chance for some early medieval history!

And now, for the potpourri section.  It's gotten kind of chilly here, but when I went to church at the cathedral Sunday I was expecting a respite from the weather.  It turns out I didn't dress warmly enough; I didn't consider that a 13th-century cathedral might not have central heating.  Also, on a completely unrelated note, tomorrow (starting at midnight) is the Beaujolais Nouveau festival.  Beaujolais wine grapes have just been harvested, and it's become traditional to drink the new wine after about a week's fermentation (France sets the starting date by law on the 3rd Thursday of November).  The winegrowers only make their crappiest grapes into new wine, so it's not exactly high-quality stuff (especially since I don't like Beaujolais much anyway), but it's supposedly a fun tradition.  Tomorrow my high school is sponsoring a Beaujolais Nouveau party for the staff, which isn't that strange.  What is strange is that it takes place during the day (11:30-2:00) on campus.  Needless to say, attitudes about alcohol are very different here.  Also, I finally borrowed a guitar and have started playing for the first time in ages.  I used to play a lot, stopped during my last two years of college, and now with the encouragement of two musical host brothers have taken it up again.  We're playing at an open mic night, then we're learning a set to debut at their grandfather's birthday party in December.  It feels good to get my fingers all sore again.

My final update: in a sudden flash of inspiration, I decided to come home for Christmas.  Originally Mom and Dad were coming here, but after we decided it'd be easier, cheaper, and better for me just to go home.  I miss my extended family, my dog, and my diet Sunkist, so it's just going to be more practical for me to come to them than vice versa.  But I'm returning to France in time for the New Year, which is never very exciting at my house in Alabama, so I get the best of both worlds: quality family time for Christmas, and fun friends time for New Years.  Yay for having friends on both sides of the Atlantic!

Monday, November 7, 2011

Back to Where I Started

To all 3 of my dedicated readers out there, I apologize for the delay posting.  As you recall I've been on a big multicity vacation so I haven't exactly had lots of time to blog.  Plus it's hard to write a good blog entry on an iPhone (I left my laptop in France).

So, a quick summary of my vacation.  I met up with Elena in Vienna, and we spent the afternoon market hopping.  She turned in for the night rather early, so I walked around Vienna for a while on my own.  Vienna is a really great city, very modern but at the same time with a ton of history and culture.  I also got to make a surprise day trip to Budapest to see two old friends, Kristin and Amelia.  Budapest was originally part of our itinerary, but then I thought Amelia was going to be too busy (she goes to grad school there), but the night before I found out via Facebook that Kristin was getting to come, so Elena and I hopped on the train early the next morning for our Hungarian adventure.  Hungary was a different world.  The language is absolutely foreign to me--it's one of three European languages that isn't related to the rest (the other two are Finnish and Basque).  We climbed a hill and surveyed the city, eventually ending up at a little Hungarian restaurant that served one of the best meals of the trip, despite our complete lack of communication.

Back in Vienna, things kind of got worse.  I somehow got a weird stomach bug and went to two pharmacies looking for a remedy.  I wasn't feeling better, so my last day in Vienna was spent in an Austrian hospital getting an IV to ward off dehydration and lower my fever.  I still managed to tour the Hapsburg palace and see a few other things, but I had to miss going to the Vienna opera, which I had really wanted to do.

Next on our trip was Salzburg.  I wanted to go to Salzburg for the sole purpose of getting Mozartkugeln (a delicious chocolate-pistachio confection), but I found out when I got there that "The Sound of Music" had been filmed there, too.  Pleasant surprise.  Salzburg was my favorite stop on our trip.  The city is gorgeous, smallish, and very quaint.  It also helped that I was starting to feel better at this point.  I would love to go back to Salzburg and stay a little longer (and maybe do one of the cheesy "Sound of Music" tours because let's be honest, that movie is awesome.  And probably the reason I sing too much...)

After Salzburg we went to Munich.  To be frank, I didn't particularly like it.  Our room smelled disgusting and it seemed like the only thing to do is drink beer.  I think beer is just about as appealing as drinking antifreeze, so I was up beer creek without a paddle.  I was pleasantly surprised to find perhaps the most important museum of Greek sculpture outside of Greece, though.  Thanks to this museum, I have now seen about 75% of the pieces I studied in my Greek art history class.  I also ended up buying a poster for my room with busts of all the Roman emperors, 27 BC - 476 AD.  Total geekout.

Next was Prague.  Oh Prague, what an adventure.  We got in quite late and took a taxi to our hostel, paying 980 Czech koruna (about 39 Euro, or $55) for a 5-minute taxi ride.  Needless to say, we fell victim to a tourist trap.  We also had trouble finding our hostel, and when a random man came up to us on the street and said, "What hostel are you looking for?" I got a little scared.  Elena wanted to follow him, though, and it turned out all right--he actually was the hostel owner.  We had quite an experience in Prague.  The city is great, if a little touristy.  There's a lot to see in terms of sights, although the museum scene wasn't that great.  Nightlife, however, was.  That was the only time I went out on the trip, since it was more of a culture-y vacation for me, but at the same time who can say no to the largest nightclub in central Europe?  I love to dance as much as the next guy, even if I end up looking like a paralyzed octopus.  I think it was too crowded for anyone to care, and our awesome new Canadian friends were too nice to say anything.

The next day Elena and I went with another guy we'd met in the hostel to Kunta Hora, a small city about an hour by train from Prague.  It's known for one thing: the most macabre church I've ever visited.  The city was the site of an early Cistercian monastery, and one of the monks brought soil from Jerusalem to sprinkle in the church's graveyard.  This made the little cemetery the trendiest place in Bohemia for your bones to make their final resting place...unless you were one of the unlucky people whose skeleton was turned into a decorative altarpiece or chandelier after the Hussites burned the old building.  Yes, you heard me: the church is decorated with human bones.  Weird...

On our way back I got on the most crowded train I've ever seen.  It was completely packed; every compartment was full, and the hallways were jammed with friendly Czechs, so naturally me, Elena, and Clay (our travel buddy) squeezed into the train bathroom.  It's okay; if anyone had needed to use it, they couldn't have gotten there anyway.

After Prague was Amsterdam.  This is one of the most unique cities I've ever visited.  Canals are everywhere, every coffee shop reeks of (completely legal) marijuana, and EVERYONE speaks English.  Amsterdam has a really rich culture, with a number of cool museums (highlights: Van Gough and Tropical Museum).  I saw a 50,000 Euro jewel at a diamond factory, strolled around the Red Light district, and went to Anne Frank's house.  I tasted Dutch pancakes (twice) and took a canal tour.  I stayed a hostel the size of Soissons.  Amsterdam is definitely worth a visit, even if you're like me and don't want to smoke pot or cavort with one of the (completely legal) "ladies of the night."

But alas, all epic trips must come to an end.  I had a great time, but I was completely exhausted and ready to get back to my life here in France.  I got back on Thursday night and worked Friday morning, took Saturday to rest, and then Sunday went off to Disneyland Paris with my family and our guest for the week, Elie's German pen pal.  Eurodisney was AMAZING.  Being in Disney in Europe was a taste of America.  American flags fly over most of the park, and the music they played in line for Thunder Mountain was a sort of "Greatest Hits of American Folk."  And by that, I mean the songs every good southern child learns by heart: "On Top of Old Smokey," "Polly Wolly Doodle," "Home on the Range," etc.  I wanted to square dance but the other 2,000 people in line might not have liked that.

Otherwise, Eurodisney is a lot like Disneyworld; it's laid out the same, and the rides are comparable, although Space Mountain is better in Paris.  When I got back, I crashed into bed rather early.  Which sounds appealing right about now.  So goodnight world.  Pictures are coming soon!